Crisp Refreshment in Sauvignon Blanc

Now, the chardonnay producers have pulled back and are making leaner, livelier non-oaky chardonnays. Could it be that many California chardonnays are now trying to capitalize on the success of sauvignon blanc?
Unpretentious sauvignon blancs from Napa and Sonoma Counties, with their suggestions of lemon and herbs, have something to say: bring on the food. These wines have a particular talent for grappling with tricky culinary challenges like bold acid and even sweetness.
I find them as suited as the Italian pinot grigios I like to pour with a Venetian classic, fish in saor. It's a wonderful summer dish, which can be made in advance and left to marinate, then served at room temperature. ''In saor'' refers to the sweet vinegar and onion marinade.

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